Dawn broke over the mountains in Akame and warmed the tatami mats we slept on. Birds sang morning alarms and without a moment’s hesitation we were showered and running off to breakfast, the memories of the bowls sea treasures and delicate soups that teased all parts of our palettes from dinner the night still dancing in our minds, having made their way into our dreams the night before with their incredible flavors. 

Instead of an intimate table setting this time, breakfast was served side by side at the counter in the dining room, so we could watch as the sun made its way up in the sky, making the clean and clear river below sparkle like as if made from liquid diamond. 

After we had digested a bit, we changed into our day clothes and made our way back to the lobby and headed down the drive towards the museum and culture center for the other reason I had dragged Cuong all the way to Akame: Ninja Class.

In the Sengoku period when the Iga ninja roamed the lands of Japan, they had stumbled across this little piece of heaven in the mountains. It was militarily strategic and a perfect place to hide away, train and refresh their body and souls. Now in modern times, the museum in Akame offers visitors the opportunity to learn about the history of the ancient ninja who once trained there, guides tell stories of their amazing feats and how some even speculated that they might have been able to wield magic because of how inexplicable some of stealth and silence. Once you have learned a bit about them, you then get to step into the tabi shoes, literally, of the Iga ninja. Our instructor spoke English as well as Japanese so Cuong could also be included on the learning and details of our class. It was an amazing surprise and accomodation in such an off the beaten path destination such as Akame. 

Traditionally the ninja chose darker colors to blend into the night but the museum offers visitors a wide range of colors and sizes of traditional ninja garb to try on and wear for their training and you are able to change and store your clothes in their locker rooms before your sensei escorts you into the woods to begin your lesson. 

Just behind Taisenkaku, hidden just in the wooded trails, lies a playground of challenges, ropes and obstacle courses made from natural materials that almost blended into their surroundings. From tall poles to scale, walls to climb, and ropes to run, shimmy across (and in my case, sometimes dangle helplessly from)and there seemed to be almost every imaginable situation or obstacle you could conjour for you to put your balance and strength to the test like a real ninja. 

Your sensei shows you and demonstrates the various equipment, how they might be used in practical application; a rope to lay across on to shimmy across a moat in the dead of night, climbing techniques when there weren’t many hand holds available, and then you are put through your paces and get to try out the courses and various obstacles yourself. 

The next stop on the trail revealed angry grimacing dummies, and bright red targets painted in various places on them, which sent me, who was working as an axe throwing instructor during that time, into a frenzy. 

Not only did our instructor teach us to throw and wield the traditional throwing stars of the ninja, the shuriken, but also the kunai, throwing knives, as well as the long pipes and darts the ninjas would use to sedate and poison enemies quietly at a distance. 

Our sensei lead us into a very old house next at the bottom of the trail. He explained that the house was designed with traditional ninja traps used to move clandestinely through their fortresses. Soon the shadowy ninja house was filled with laughter as Cuong and I stumbled, crawled and tumbled our way through the various ladders and doors of the house and learned more about the ways of the ninja. 

After this portion, we were presented with official scrolls, letting any who inquired know that we were officially trained in the ways of ninjustu in the style of the Iga ninja. Once you have obtained your certification you are welcome to roam the trails and continue to rest your skills in their obstacle courses and bouldering walls if you haven’t had your full of ninja training. 

Cuong and I found ourselves wanting to take a slower approach to Akame’s trails and took a stroll up some of the nature paths around the grounds that showcased the amazing 48 different waterfalls that glistened along it. At the start of the path is an information center and conservation area for some of Japan’s rarest and coolest creatures: The Japanese Giant Salamander. Though we weren’t able to get a glimpse of any wild ones, in the visitors center we were able acquaintance of several who lived there. They were massive, regal and wise looking creatures, some of them over 50 years old; Japanese Giant Salamander often living up to 80 years. 

These adorable, gentle giants can get up to 5 feet long and even weigh close to 50 pounds. They require the cleanest water possible to survive, which has resulted in them becoming endangered as their natural habitats shrink from pollution and environmental damage. 

Luckily, the beautiful waters of Akame have stayed as clean as when they were first walked upon by the Iga ninja clan and the rivers and waterfalls provide the salamander with a safe and beautiful home as well as heroic efforts from the conservation teams and residents of Akame who love and respect their aquatic neighbors. 

After our nature walk we made sure to squeeze in one last soak in the magical waters ourselves in the onsen and then we said our goodbyes to Akame and hopped into the hotel’s shuttle to be spirited back to reality. 

I hesitate to say Akame is a great example of a rural Japan because despite the beautiful farms surrounding it, I’m not sure if I will ever experience anything close the magic of the mountain waters, the songs of the forest while it healed my spirit and the food that brought new life into my body anywhere else in the world. It’s a must for any person already in Japan and an incredible opportunity for foreign travelers in Japan looking to learn more about tradition and very pampered while doing so.